Thursday, 16 November 2017

Basically brilliant Buccaneer

Fresh from the Partizan ‘plane purchase pile is this rather lovely and surprisingly intact Buccaneer. Resplendent in RAF markings and all-over brown and tan camouflage it’s a very pleasing addition to my Little Cold Wars air forces.

Wednesday, 1 November 2017

Furiously fettling feeble French foot

Here are a few photos of the post-Leipzig game sort-out of my French infantry.  They're not lookers but there are decent numbers of them.  I plan to paint up some neater units for next year's game.

Thursday, 26 October 2017

Painting 54mm plastics - a duffer's guide part 4

Once the paint is dry I apply a coat of varnish.  As I like a glossy 'toy soldier' look I use either Gloss or Satin varnish by Ronseal or it's B&Q equivalent.  I have taken to using satin recently as it does in fact give quite a glossy finish and dries quickly.  A second coat can be applied - not least as I'll have missed bits first time round.  Make sure to put plenty on bendy extremities like musket barrels and swords.

Some figures look better with a bit of pigment in the varnish - such as these very well detailed CTS North Koreans.  Rather then clear varnish I used Ronseal Satin Light Oak.  More expensive products are available but as far as I can see they're not any more effective.
Finally I stick a bit pf magnetic sheet to the bottom of the base.  Why?  Because I use thin steel movement bases and I like the figures to be secure... this!

That's the end of this series of posts  - unless there's anything you feel I didn't cover.

Monday, 23 October 2017

Painting 54mm plastics - a duffer's guide part 3

Firstly, thank you for the comments and questions resulting from parts one and two.

The gesso having dried to a nice matt finish, we can now proceed with the actual painting.
There is usually a base colour to apply, for example white for the 18thC French we'll meet in a moment or beige to represent the faded olive on these North Koreans.  Slap on the base coat with a big - size 5 or so - brush.
My standard for painting is something like the Britains Deetail range.  These WW2 Americans featured in a previous post - only the chap in the middle is an actual Deetail figure (with his original paintwork).
I ditched enamel paints back in the 1990s and now use acrylics.  While I mostly use Vallejo paints, I look out for cheaper paint for the colours which I'll use a lot of .  The 'Crafter's Choice' range can be found in The Works for £1 each.
 While the base coat dries be thinking about the 'detail' painting.  I use pretty basic references such as the splendid Funcken books

Here are some 18th Century French - the white base colour (applied over the black gesso) has been augmented by brown for muskets and packs, tan for knapsacks, flat flesh for hands and faces and in the case of this regiment, green for cuffs and tunics.  They'll also get gunmetal bayonets, swords and musket barrels and black to touch in shoes and hats.  All this can be done with a single brush of size 0 to 2.
 The NKPA getting similar treatment.
 My 'trademark' touch is the mad staring eyes I give all my figures.  Apply a white stripe and a dot of black.  This can either be done with a fine brush and a cocktail stick, or you can cheat and use...
...paint pens.  These are the lazy wargamer's friends.
 A different batch of NKPA - this time in as yet unfaded uniforms.
The French again.  Both eyes and the gold hat trim were added with paint pens.
The bases are now painted - I generally paint them green using Dulux matt emulsion paint.  Woodland Fern 1 in fact, which I have mixed to order in a 1-litre tin.

Next - varnish and finishing.